Date I made this recipe:
Wednesday, January 5, 2017 – National Spaghetti Day!
The Pleasures of
Italian Cooking by Romeo Salta with an
Introduction by Myra
Waldo
Published by The Macmillan Company
© 1962; Fourth Printing 1968
Purchased at Hilo Bay Books, Hilo ,
Hawaii
Recipe: Spaghetti with Veal Dumplings (Spaghetti
Piatto Unico) – p. 73; Bonus recipe (untried) – Spaghetti with Bacon Sauce (Spaghetti
all' Amatriciana)- p. 78.
So thanks to Facebook,
I was alerted to the fact that Wednesday, January 5th, was National Spaghetti Day and boy was I
ever excited. Mind you, when I was
growing up, Wednesday was "Prince Spaghetti Day," as advertised on TV
by the Prince Spaghetti Company (go
to YouTube and search
"Anthony! Anthony! Price Spaghetti Commercial." (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8ti1hnLiLw)
"Anthony's" family was not alone in making
spaghetti on Wednesday. We often had it on
Wednesday as well because Wednesday was typically the day we scheduled our doctor
and dentist appointments for late afternoon, and when we came home, my mom
wanted to make a quick and easy dinner. She often made the sauce in advance in large
batches and then froze and thawed them, so that all she had to do was cook the
spaghetti, made a salad, slice the bread and dinner was served.
I wish I could give my mom credit for starting National
Spaghetti Day but alas, I think not although the Prince Spaghetti commercial might have definitely played a role in
all this.
Now I am nothing if not prepared for a day like this as I
have numerous Italian or Sicilian cookbooks containing recipes for
spaghetti. But let's be real here: it's the sauce that seals the deal.
Which is not to say that I don't like spaghetti and other
forms of pasta because I do. In fact, every time I make a pot and drain it, I
always grab a piece or two to "taste," don't you know, before putting
it in a bowl and adding sauce. I get
that from my father who always tasted tested the pasta in the same way. When it came to cooking pasta, dad was the man
and he could make a mean sauce too, but he usually left that part to mom.
So I looked through my vast collection for spaghetti recipes
and let me suggest to you that the easiest way to find one is to look at the Recipes Indexe found in the back of most
cookbooks. Simply cruise your way
through "Salads," "Soups," and there you go – "Spaghetti." And oh sure, sometimes you have to go rogue
and look under "Pasta" but not in the books I looked at.
So I looked through two books and then when I got to this
one – The Pleasures of Italian Cooking
– I found not one but two great-sounding recipes. The first one was basic – Spaghetti with Bacon Sauce (Spaghetti all'
Amatriciana) – p. 78, but the second one was intriguing – Spaghetti with Veal Dumplings (Spaghetti
Platto Unico) - p. 73. Because I
don't know about you, but when I hear the word "dumplings," I think of either hearty Eastern European
food or Chinese dumplings like Shumai which I love. In reality, these were really meatballs but
the author chose to call them "dumplings" and who am I to argue?
Since both of these sounded good (and boy, was I starving
when I finished looking through cookbooks), I decided to photocopy both recipes
and then make a final decision at the grocery store. And happily, I didn't need to purchase much
as I had all the ingredients for either one save for some chopped tomatoes and,
for the veal dumplings, the veal.
It is here I must pause to a) rant and b) tell a hilarious
"What are the odds?" story.
The rant is this: why
do I always have so much trouble finding veal, never mind fresh (not frozen)
veal in this town? Yes, I know that some
people have issues with the way veal (baby cows) are raised. And yes I know that the Italian population
here in Minnesota
is minuscule compared to that of the east coat.
But for the love of Michelangelo folks, it is nearly impossible to
source veal of any kind (ground, cutlets, etc.) and it's not like I live in the
backwater, I live in the city! A fairly
good-sized city! "Twin" Cities even! Yet you can just forget about finding it at a
regular grocery store or some of our
upscale stores like Lunds & Byerlys,
and even Whole Foods informed me that
they are very fussy about their veal vendors (well, who isn't), and so they
have not secured one for their local area stores.
Seriously? In the
entire state of Minnesota and/or Western
Wisconsin and/or Eastern Iowa , you cannot find
one – o.n.e. – vendor to provide you with veal?
What is this country coming to?
But folks, all is not lost.
Kowalski's grocery store (also
somewhat upscale) carries it, as does the St.
Paul Meat Shop on Grand Ave
in St. Paul (but theirs is frozen) and so I had those two options but it's not
like I had racks and racks of veal products to peruse at either because I did
not. At best, I'd find maybe a few
packages.
As a side note, I have to confess that I was stuck with only
two grocery options until it dawned on me today that I forgot a store: Cossetta, an Italian grocery store in St. Paul . But Cossetta
is a little further for me to drive, the parking lot is the size of a postage
stamp, and it's a veritable "zoo" inside which is to say crammed to
the rafters, "all day, all night, Marianne" ("down by the
seaside siftin' sand...").
And now we turn to the second pause in our (riveting) story,
b) "What are the odds?" So I
elected to shop at Kowalski's meat
department where I found one, lone package of ground veal. Well then, maybe I should make the dumplings
after all, no? Except I thought about
the rest of you trying to source veal and thought maybe I should just go with the
Spaghetti with Bacon sauce because if you all can't get your hands on some
bacon, then I don't know what to tell you.
Still though, I vacillated and it was getting late in the
day and I had other groceries to buy and so I left the one, lone package
behind. I did this in part because Andy
was not going to be home on National
Spaghetti Day and so I felt I had a day to make up my mind on the veal
before making our spaghetti meal the next night. Because seriously, what are the odds that someone else would buy "my veal?"
Turns out:
considerable! Because I went back
the next day and "my" veal was gone.
Gone, Baby, Gone! I mean, the
freaking nerve! Honestly, I am still
obsessing about the person(s) who absconded with my veal because who besides me
was on the lookout for the stuff? I was
half tempted to ask to see store footage...
Luckily, even thought the ground veal was Gone, Baby, Gone,
there were a few packages of veal for veal scaloppini. And so I inquired of one of the butchers
whether I could just put this in my Cuisinart
and he said "sure," and so I brought it home and pulsed it in my Cuisinart for just a few seconds and I
tell you what: I would put up my version
of ground veal against a bona fide butcher any day. It was perfect!
So I added the rest of the ingredients to the veal, made
them into little "dumplings" and fried them up as directed, and then
all that needed to be done was to add the chopped tomatoes and some pepper and
let it all simmer for 30 minutes. Tack
on another 8 minutes or so for the spaghetti (plus another 24 hours since I
made this on Thursday) and we had ourselves a very tasty National Spaghetti Day dinner!
But I'm still stuck on how to accommodate the people who
want to observe a late-breaking National Spaghetti Day but who can't find veal
and so here's a thought: if you can't
source veal you might try using ground chicken or turkey. The consistency is about the same as the veal
and so it might work. Or you could try
ground pork although it might make the meatballs a tad more greasy so perhaps
ground beef?
Or, you can try the runner-up recipe for Spaghetti with Bacon Sauce below. I didn't try it but it sounded tasty and is
oh-so-easy.
Finally, I have to mention that as you will see by the
photo, this cookbook was likely well used as it is coming apart at the seams and
that is sad. Inexplicably, I found this
book in two places, one in NYC and this one in Hawaii .
I passed on the one in NYC because at the time, I felt the cover was
kind of tattered plus it was pricey, coming in around $25.00. But when I found this version in Hawaii , even the
falling-apart cover could not persuade me to pass on a book that was priced at
$6.00. I can be such a smart shopper
even while being a dumb one with the veal.
And so we come full circle!
As to the book, when I Googled
author Romeo Salta's name, I found that he was a pretty important person in Manhattan , enough to merit
an obituary in the New York Times on
September 6, 1998 ( Romeo died on August 31, 1998). As the obituary noted, "one of the first
Manhattan
restaurateurs to introduce fine Italian cuisine" to NYC. He owned a couple of restaurants, worked at a
few hotels including the Waldorf Astoria,
and according to the New York Times,
even had a line of frozen foods with his name on it for a short period of
time. All that and more from a guy who
immigrated here from Italy ! So "Oh Romeo, Romeo," I wish you
were still alive so I could tell you how much I enjoyed these veal dumplings
which is a damned good thing considering all the hoops I had to jump through to
get them! And they made for a very good
accompaniment to spaghetti on National Spaghetti Day 2017. On to next year!
Spaghetti with Veal
Dumplings (Spaghetti Piatto Unico) –
serves 4
½ pound ground veal
1/8 pound prosciutto, or cooked ham, finely chopped
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1 ½ teaspoons salt (Ann's
Note: use ½ teaspoon for the dumplings, reserve the rest for the sauce)
1 egg, beaten
½ cup dry bread crumbs
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons dry vermouth (Ann's Note: You can probably
get away with using a dry white wine here)
1 pound tomatoes, chopped (Ann's Note: I use Pomi brand chopped tomatoes. They come
in a carton already chopped and ready to go.
And as I love to say, "Why do for yourself what you can pay others
to do for you?")
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound spaghetti, cooked and drained
Mix together the veal, ham, cheese, ½ teaspoon salt and the
egg. Shape teaspoons of the mixture into
little balls. Roll in the bread crumbs.
Melt the butter in a saucepan; brown the balls in it. Add the wine; cook until absorbed, add the
tomatoes, pepper and remaining salt; cook over low heat 30 minutes. Taste for seasoning. Pour over the hot spaghetti and serve with
grated cheese. This dish is served as a main course.
Bonus recipe: Spaghetti with Bacon Sauce (Spaghetti all'
Amatriciana) – serves 4-6
¼ pound bacon, diced
½ cup chopped onion
¼ cup dry white wine
1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound spaghetti, cooked and drained
1 cup grated Pecorino or Parmesan cheese
In a saucepan, cook the bacon and onion until browned. Add the wine; cook until almost
evaporated. Mix the tomatoes and pepper;
cook over low heat for 20 minutes. Taste
for seasoning. Pour over the hot
spaghetti and sprinkle with the cheese.
1 comment:
Salta's book is excellent: The recipes are so terse and straightforward, yet just as good as those of meticulous and unforgiving Marcella Hazan.
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